Canoe And Fly Rod Make Good Combination

Historians tell us fly fishing originated more than two thousand years ago.

indeed, an artificial fly, described in a work on natural history written about

100 AD, is remarkably similar to many used today. Rods and lines, used by

the ancients, differed from ours mainly in the materials from which they were

fashioned.

Likewise, the origin of the modern day canoes is shrouded in antiquity

When the first white men arrived on this continent they found Indians u!3in~

canoes whose design had long been perfected. in the years since, like fly

fisher's gear, changes have been confined to the materials used in their

construction.

It is one of the few links between the past and the future. Other early tools

have been relegated to museums or forgotten, but the canoe lives on as a

viable part of today's outdoor life, and for many fly fishers it has become an

important adjunct to their sport.

A lot of ponds and lakes cannot be fished by wading, and on large rivers

some sort of flotation device is often necessary to prospect their sloughs.

Fly fishing is eminently suited to shallow water and surface feeding fish. in

lakes fish start to feed on or near the surface and move shoreward in late

afternoon and evenings. This is also the time when most people are apt to have

time free to go fishing. A canoe has much to offer under these conditions.

With the possible exceptions of inflatables and folding prams or kayaks,

they are the most easily transported of all boats. Launching is fast and easy

and requires no ramp or dock. No other boat moves so easily or so quietly as

a properly paddled canoe. This is a definite asset because fish near the surface

or in the shallows are easily spooked.

The average one (15 to 18 feet) is long enough to give two fly fishers plenty

of room to cast with ample space for gear between them. Ability to move

about within the confines of the craft is limited, but for an hour or two this is

no hardship and a canoe is easily put ashore to allow for leg stretching.

A canoe used for fly fishing should have a wide flat bottom and a keel to

reduce its tendency to slip sideways if an occupant leans too far when casting

or netting a fish. It should be light enough so the owner can carry it alone, at

least for short distances.

Length adds stability to a fishing canoe. it should also have a straight

bottom from bow to stern. Those built like a chair rocker were designed to

pivot quickly, thus allowing the operator to better steer in white water, but

stability is reduced. This you don't need when fly casting.

Also avoid those with extra high ends. They act like a weather vane on open water are are at the mercy of the wind. The ones the Indians made with high prows were ceremonial canoes to be used for affairs of state such as

transporting dignitaries or in funeral processions. Their working craft were

made with points just high enough to keep waves from splashing in and low

enough not to be wind catchers.

As in using a fly rod, becoming competent with a canoe entails a little effort

and practice but it's worth it. it might be wise to rent one and try a trip or two

without fishing. This way you can see if you like it and concentrate on

paddling and handling the craft. Talk to owners and get their suggestions.

You will probably want to buy your own to carryon your car top or possibly

on a light trailer. It's no longer necessary to have a roof rack to transport a

canoe on a car. Styrofoam pads are available that slip over the gunwales and

support the canoe directly on the car top.

Much has been written about paddling, some of it pretty pretentious, and

many different strokes have been listed and given names. Suffice to say

however, you should be able to paddle alone without changing sides except

to rest your arms. You can keep a canoe going in a straight line, after a little

practice, by twisting the paddle as it is drawn back. You can turn the canoe

by pushing or pulling sideways at the same time as you twist and pull back.

If two people are paddling, the one in the rear does the steering. if they

paddle on opposite sides it will probably make it a little easier for the

steersman. A good rear paddler, however, can keep a canoe on course no

matter what the front one does.

An item often overlooked that is very important to paddling ease is correct

loading. A properly trimmed canoe will travel much farther with each paddle

stroke.

Normally, a canoe should be loaded so it is level on the water. if the front

is lower than the stern, the canoe will yaw and the stern paddler will be hard

pressed to control it. if the bow is light, every puff of wind will turn it one way

or the other and it will push against the water rather than glide over it. A

properly loaded canoe will run freely between strokes.

Even in a strong head wind, when weight in the front keeps it from swinging

off to one side, it's best to keep the load level. if the bow is too low the canoe

will plow through the waves rather than rise with them and may take water

over the front.

There is one exception to this rule, in fast water the down stream end should

be heavy. This helps keep the canoe running straight with the current.

A canoe is probably the handiest small boat ever made and, for their size,

the safest. Like any tool though, it must be treated with judgment and respect.

Each occupant should always wear a flotation vest or belt. (I wear a water

skier's belt.) Occupants should be cautioned to try to stay on the center of the

seats and any cargo should be loaded, as much as possible, in the center of

the canoe and kept low.

Some canoes have foam sponsons permanently attached to the gunwales. Clamp-on sponsons can be purchased to make the others virtually capsize proof.